Frequently Asked Lawn Care Questions
We’ve been asked just about every question there is about lawns. Below are a few of the most common questions we receive.
If you can’t find the answers you’re looking for, we’re here to help! We love helping customers reach their lawn goals!
Q: How much lawn does your crabgrass product cover?
A: Our 50 lb bag of crabgrass prevention covers 10,000 sq ft. It is important that you apply the product accurately, by knowing how much actual turf you have (your “sward size”). We can help you determine the size of your yard, and let you know how much to apply. Check out our Lawn Measurement Service. (link to lawn measurement anchor)
Q: Why does The Turf Plan require two applications of crabgrass herbicide?
A: Crabgrass will start to emerge when the soil warms up, but it will germinate ALL summer long, if rainfall and/or irrigation is supplied. Even though we’re using the best crabgrass herbicide on the market expecting season long control of crabgrass control from a single application of herbicide is pure folly. Crabgrass will germinate well into the summer months if left untreated.
Q: I cannot get rid of my moles! Help!
A: To eradicate moles, you need a great trap. Harpoon traps work OK, but you really have to learn how to set them properly. There are a few tricks you need to know. We can show you how to do this, but our recommended trap is called the MOLE ELIMINATOR. It is easy to set (you simply step on it) and works. Come in to check one out.
Q: What plants do voles eat? I've seen hosta leaves halfway pulled down into a little hole - is a vole doing that?
A: The answer to your second question is YES! Voles are subterranean little rodents. They make holes in the ground, no bigger than a quarter in diameter. They frequently share mole runs or take over mole runs. They’ll cut leaves off at the base, drag them to their hole, and then munch on them safely in the cover of their tunnel. They absolutely love hostas and daylilies, but they’re known to eat all different kinds of plants.
Q: My Zoysia grass lawn is older. I get brown dead patches. Help!
A: Zoysiavgrass in St. Louis has been hit hard with a disease, called “zoysia patch,” which is essentially the same disease organism as brown patch on fescue. Its spread is aggravated by mismanagement! Too much water, not dethatching enough (your primary cause), and late applications of nitrogen (after August 15th) are some of the main contributors to incidence and occurrence of the disease. First, don’t think about dethatching Zoysia grass until mid- to late May. It must be almost 100% green so that it can recover quickly after you tear it up. Second, implement a strong weed control and fertilizer regimen. Check out our products and services for more information.
BROADLEAF WEED CONTROL
Q: I have a lot of chickweed growing in my repaired turf. Do I need to spray it now?
A: Yes, you should plan to spray it as soon as you can find a nice, sunny, calm day, when the temperatures exceed 55F. It is important to slow this weed down, because just like turf, it’s about to explode as soon as the temperatures warm up. Spraying it sooner than later may not kill it dead, but it will stunt it severely, giving the baby turf a chance to compete better. Plan on spraying a second, and even a third time, if necessary. There is no reason to tolerate any broadleaf weed in your lawn!
LAWN MEASUREMENT | SWARD SIZE CALCULATIONS
Q: Is knowing my yard size really important? A typical bag of fertilizer or seed at the store works great on my lawn. Can’t I just use a bag?
A: It’s incredibly important to know your yard size because great results are derived from proper application of the dose (whether it be nitrogen, crabgrass herbicide, grub control, fungicide, etc.) of the product being applied. If you overdose the lawn, you might cause damage. If you underdose the product it won’t work correctly.